Presto Tools

The PRESTO pattern of watch hand removing tools has been a favorite of watchmakers and instrument makers up to this day. This is part of a family of guides about old precision tools. To access the current Index for all these guides, please click on: Back to Index Guide.

Whether you are someone starting a collection, an experienced Master Watchmaker, a Jeweler, a dealer or just someone who loves the craftsmanship that goes into beautiful precision tools... you might find some useful information in this guide.

FUNCTION

These tools were primarily intended to remove specific watch and clock parts. They perform the removal of the following parts:
a) Watch hands

b) Clock hands

c) Cannon pinion
d) Sweep wheel
e) Second hand
f) Crown for split stems
They all are similarly constructed and are based on the method of pressing the flexible steel sides to exercise almost simultaneous pulling and pushing forces. Below are described some relevant characteristics of these tools: 

• Some models press against parts of the watch, clock or instrument to lift up the part. In the above picture, the small brass "fingers" push against the watch's plate to remove a sweep wheel. The tool is so designed to fit in between the wheel's spokes and grab the hub.
  
  
• In this type of tool the black pads and the jaws move in opposite directions to pull the hand out. The spring loaded center plunger holds the hand pressed against the jaws to minimize the possibility that the hand could snap away and get lost. Notice the position of the plunger with respect to the jaws; for the tool to operate correctly, the plunger must always be below the jaws.
  
  
• This is a "turret" model that have push pins of different sizes that can be selected based on the diameter of the centerpost. The pin is used to press against the postso that the tool could remove a hand without touching the dial.

MODELS

This tool pattern was manufactured in different countries, multiple models and brands over the years and they are still being produced today. They also came with different thickness in the jaws as well as different sizes of centerposts. The models were numbered though not all models have the number on it. To help recognize some of the models, pictures have been appended below with the description.
Due to limitations in the number of pictures available to be posted in eBay Guides, we are listing below some common and few uncommon models that can still show up in the marketplace and collections.

• This is a popular model (#1 Hand Remover for Bracelet Watches) that is commonly found with straight jaws. Some models also came with a little "V" slot in the middle of the jaws to help grab the hand's hub on smaller hands. A model similar to this one but without the central plunger (#2 Cannon Pinion Remover), and sturdier jaws is used to remove cannon pinions and hands in larger watches. It is also somehow similar to a model (#6 Second hand remover) used to remove second hands primarily on countersunk, curved dials since it has thinner jaws to reach down in the countersunk dials.
  
  
  
  
• This is a tool (#3 Sweep Wheel remover) to safely remove the smallest sweep wheels, even in ladies watches as well as large sweep wheels. 
  
  
   
• This is a heavier duty model (#4 Clock hand remover and pointer puller) manufactured to remove hands on instruments, meters, gages, travel alarms, pocket stop-watches, etc. A turret model with thinner pins (#7 Hand remover) for smaller time pieces is particularly useful on curved dials and delicate porcelain dials already with hairlines.

CHALLENGES

Some of the newer and old tools currently available have been carefully maintained and used. In spite of many years of service, some would still be able to perform reasonably well over even a longer period of time. However some may show some signs of wear, neglect or breakage. The following pictures show some of the most common challenges found in this type of tools:

• The picture on the left shows an off-center and displaced plunger. This problem commonly ocurrs when the side springs are deformed and they tend to position the plunger too far out. In addition, the wire may be bent so that it is not centered with respect to the jaws. This problem can -sometimes- be solved by bending the side springs back to position. First, insert a slim piece of wood or metal wedged between the spring and the arm, then gently pressing the springs with brass lined pliers. That would create a slight bent that would push the plunger up a bit. A bent wire is hard and it generally is easier to solve by just adjusting it with a pair of pliers.
  
  
• The leftmost view shows marring on the black fiber tip with a chipped pad in addition to a misaligned cracked plunger tip, The upper right picture shows a marred and dented Bakelite handle. The lower right view depicts occasionally misaligned side pads depending on how the tool is operated. These could be just cosmetic/minor defects that might not affect the normal operation of the tool. However, they may become an issue if the pads are worn out, cracked and broken as they may make the tool slip or mar the dial. The cracked plunger could scratch delicate hands. Some parts, like the pads and the handle are relatively easy to replace, but other defects could prove very hard to fix.
  

TIPS

Simple tips to acquire, maintain and use these tools:

• Before acquiring any of these tools, ask questions about the common challenges listed above and check for signs that may indicate the condition and quality of the tool. Always procure the best quality tool you can afford.
• The original tools were manufactured using top quality materials and processes that ensured long effective performance. Some newer brand name tools retain a similar quality as the originals. However, some of the current models contain lesser quality materials and therefore are not as likely to perform or last as the old versions of these tools. Make sure you recognize the differences between the different models to value appropriately what you are buying.
• The lateral force to close the "jaws" is critical to the operation of these tools, particularly when removing hands. The hand's hub could slip if the jaws press too lightly or get marred if too tight. 
• If the hand is not lifted up without applying excessive force, then it may need another method of extraction. Pushing too hard against the dial with some of these tools might create or aggravate hairline cracks (except on the "turret" models).
• If seldom used, keep the tool covered with a thin coat of bee's wax or grease to minimize the formation of rust. Place particular attention to the sides where the fingers press, as the finger's oils may eventually attack the blued finish and rust the steel.
  

Back to Index Guide